Indonesia and World Tourism News

Taman Nasional Ujung Kulon, West Java : a UNESCO World Heritage Site

June 5th, 2006

Ujung Kulon National Park covers a total of 120 hectares of land and sea. This one habitat allegedly has the biggest white rhinocerous population in the world. But since there are only about 58 left in the world, don’t be surprised if you don’t see one. There are a lot more equally amazing things to see in Ujung Kulon National Park. Ina Hapsari takes a trip with Explore Indonesia.
We went with the Explore Indonesia tour group and left Jakarta for Taman Nasional Ujung Kulon, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It takes six hours to reach Sumur, one of the entrance-ways to the park. The area is lush and secluded and it is a blessing in disguise that there is no telephone signal here.

Before beginning the day’s activities, we have breakfast at Kantor Seksi Wilayah III Sumur, an entrance to the park. The expedition group consists of 75 people divided in to five groups, all departing from Laban.
From the port of Sumur, a motorboat takes an hour and a half. There is one changeover to a smaller boat as the bigger boats can’t reach the shallow harbour. Finally as we take off our sandals and roll up our jeans three boats wait in the middle of the ocean to take us to the Laban.
With the sea breeze, the sunshine and a perfect blue sky, we sail on. Schools of fish, the livelihood of the local communities, swim around our boat. Small children with spindly legs beam at us as they jump off the fish cages in the middle of the water and swim in the sea.
For the first hour, the group is enthusiastic, but the scorching sun and increasingly strong sea breeze sends a few of us to sleep. The rest relax on deck and chat away with their new friends. I choose to enjoy the view of Krakatau on my right.

Crossing the North and South Sea
Finally we arrive at Laban and because of low-tide, we must make the transfer by canoe. Here we meet the rangers who will guide us during our stay in Ujung Kulon. To take care of the whole national park, there are 35 rangers who have to spend 20 days each month working in the jungle. Ranger Untung is the guide of my trekking group.
After 2 km, we enter the largest low land tropical forest in West Java headed to Karang Ranjang. From Laban to Karang Ranjang is the shortest distance connecting the north and the south sea. So within an hour we experienced crossing the North Sea and meeting the Indian Ocean on the other side of the island.

Though we can’t see them, singing birds accompany us on our journey. Like everyone visiting Ujung Kulon for the first time, we wish to see the Rhino, the ‘prince’ of the Ujung Kulon jungle. But after hearing a story about Pak Untung, a man who has worked here for more than 20 years but has only seen the Rhino 10 times, we decide not to get our hopes up and vow to enjoy our whatever we are lucky enough to see. We see bull footprints several times on our trek. ‘Different with the Rhinos which has their own track, bulls sometimes crossing our track,’ says Pak Untung.
About 500m before the end of our journey, the Indian Ocean waves become audible and suddenly, just beyond the dense trees of the forest, the blue sea appears in front of us. While waiting for lunch to be served, I relax under the tree and listen to the sound of the wild Indian Ocean’s waves. Now I understand the difference between it and the calm North Sea. Lunch is served on a leaf. Even though the food is very simple, everybody enjoys devouring it. The lost energy has to be replenished before our next trek, which this time is 7 km to Tanjung Lame, where we spend the night.
The trekking experience to Tanjung Lame is almost the same as the first one, but this time we find big trees that have toppled over and blocked the path, making this trek a bit more difficult. According to Monika, the only female ranger in Ujung Kulon who is now our guide, this is a natural regeneration: when the old one dies and become a fertile soil for the new plant to grow. In the middle of the journey, we can see the North Sea again. To have a different view, some of the participants choose to continue the trekking by the sea. Some others stick to the jungle to shelter from the heat. 3 hours pass by quickly and we arrive at Kantor Seksi II Pulau Hendeuleum, Tanjung Lame. Fresh coconut is served to welcome us: a ‘cure’ drink after the long journey we have been through. The bathroom becomes our next ‘struggle’.
At the end, the orange horizon turns into dark night sky. The hard wind tonight does not prevent us from enjoying the sparkling stars. The dinner even tastes more delicious in the open air. I decide to turn in early to conserve my energy for tomorrow’s activities. Canoeing in Cigenter River In the morning, our journey continues to Puecang Island, where we will spend the night. But before reaching Peucang, we will go canoeing on Cigenter River, the core zone of the Rhino’s habitat. The river is a place where the Rhinos take a bath and drink. Our hope to see the animal grows again.
This time we have to sail for an hour. The eager anticipation of canoeing makes the time fly by. But my enthusiasm suddenly changes to tension after seeing the small canoe I will use. Especially when I remember the morning’s briefing that crocodiles are also inhabitants of the river.
Each canoe holds 5 people, including the driver. We are instructed not to make any unnecessary movements which could off-set the balance of the canoe, as it could injure the passengers. Tension seizes me as my canoe struggles to hurdle the rough sea waves before reaching the river. Luckily we reach the river safely.
In the river, my tension eases as the calm water stabilizes the canoe. Here, the atmosphere is more tranquil. The birds sing softly and small fish swim in the clean green water. We row the canoe,taking turns, and enjoy the river view. Some trees jut out from the river banks and we have to duck several times. The canoe also has to avoid the fallen trees which cross our path. After canoeing for about 1.2 km, we have to turn around, this time the river is fully blocked by a fallen tree. Though we haven’t been ‘lucky’ enough to see a sunbathing crocodile or a python dangling from a tree branch, the tranquility and the singing birds have already been our bonus.
Our lunch is served at Hendeuleum Island this time, not too far away from Cigenter. Besides beautiful nature, Hendeuleum offers tame deer to play with and monkeys which hang on the trees watching our activity. Unfortunately, we didn’t spend much time in the island because our journey to Peucang will take 2 more hours.

Swimming with fish & spying on the bulls
Just arriving at Peucang, some of the group members can’t resist the temptation to jump in the clear sea water. I choose to watch the fun while my feet feel the soft white sandy beach. Some deer feed on the savanna in front of our cottage and seem indifferent to the human presence near them. But be wary of the curious monkeys, as they are eager to examine your belongings. Tonight once again the stars shine so brightly. Sitting in the quay enjoying the gentle waves feels so good. We have dinner near the sea, complete with the bonfire. The dinner is special because we each roast our own fish.
Tomorrow morning, we will have free time before leaving Ujung Kulon. There are a variety of activities we can opt to do: relaxing in Peucang, trekking to Karang Copong (the other side of the island), snorkeling in Citerjun or spying on the bulls at Cidaun savanna.
I choose the last option for a simple reason- I didn’t bring enough equipment for snorkeling and I think I have more than enough trekking experience from the other day.
To reach Cidaun, we have to depart at 6 am from Peucang by motor boat. We hope to see the bulls having their breakfast. The warm sunrise in the east sky accompanies our journey. Arriving at Cidaun, we have to enter the forest again but it isn’t too long before we arrive in the savanna where the bulls used to weed. Our arrival is welcomed by the loud sound of a male peacock trying to get the female’s attention, but no bulls so far. We wait patiently, but still there is no sign that the bulls will come out. A group of peacocks cross the savanna.
According to Ranger Dodi, bulls will never come out between 11 am - 2 pm because of the heat. ‘We could only hope they would come out at all. It depends on our luck,’ he says, trying to ease the disappointment.
Back at Peucang, I want to swim. The water is so fresh I can see the bottom. I only swim near the quay, but am pleased to see thousand of finger size fishes making a formation under me. A naughty fish even splashed me on my cheek.
When it’s time to go home, I feel my expedition to Ujung Kulon this time is complete. Trekking in the forest, canoeing in the river, swimming in the sea and spying on the bulls at the savanna, is there anything better than this?

FACT FILE
For information about tours organized by Explore Indonesia contact: Jalan Jaksa no.5, Kebon Sirih, Tel 7001 0718, 319 04157, liburanindonesia@yahoo.com
This area also has some of the best surf in the country. www.nomadsurfindonesia.com can help arrange the boat-based surf tour of your dreams.
Jakarta - Cilegon Barat toll road - Anyer - Carita - Labuan - Panimbang - Tanjung Lesung - Cibaliung - Sumur
Where to stay:
6 rooms available at Hendeuleum island for Rp 75.000/night 7 Fauna rooms available at Peucang island for Rp 250.000-350.000/night or Bivak room for Rp 150.000/night.
Ujung Kulon National Park Office
Jalan Perintis Kemerdekaan No.51 Labuan, Pandeglang 42264 Tel +62-253 801731

Source : www.jakartajavakini.com/pages/edition/may-2005/features/west-java/jungle-fever.php

Entry Filed under: Indonesia & Bali Tourism News