Archive for June 5th, 2006
Indonesia’s indigenous techniques and ingredients merge with influences from India, the Middle East, China and Europe. And then there are the New World products brought by Spanish and Portuguese traders long before the Dutch colonized the islands.
Aficionados can only skim the surface unless we travel Indonesia itself. Most restaurants abroad and English-language cookbooks focus on the foods of Java and Sumatra with tastes of tourist-haven Bali. But the cuisines on these islands alone provide us with plenty of opportunity to keep our taste buds happy and our tongues tingling.
Rice is Indonesia’s main staple except in Maluku (the Moluccas) and Irian Jaya (Indonesian New Guinea) where sago palm flour, sweet potatoes and cassava reign supreme. As in the rest of Southeast Asia, other dishes are eaten in extremely small quantities. Meat, fish and vegetables are condiments designed to flavor the staple. Sauces such as fiery sambals lend added character. Westerners, accustomed to eating much larger portions of meat and fish, find much of Indonesian food scorchingly hot.
Natural resources include rich volcanic soils and endless coastlines as the islands arc through both the Pacific and Indian Oceans. Although some coastal areas are fished out, fresh water possibilities include lakes, rivers, ponds and flooded rice paddies. Not surprisingly, fish and crustaceans, fresh and dried, play a major role in the Indonesian diet.
Flavorings indigenous to the islands establish strong family ties between Indonesian food and that of its Southeast Asian neighbors. Coconut milk, or santen, plays a critical role here as well as in Thailand, Cambodia, Burma, Malaysia, Singapore and parts of Vietnam, Laos and the Philippines. Indonesia shares the flavors of galangal, kaffir lime leaf and pandan with Thailand. Lemon grass and dried shrimp appear in the Philippines and Thailand both. Shrimp paste permeates the flavors of all three and Vietnam as well. Meanwhile delicious fruits and vegetables are common to the entire region.
But Indonesia’s culinary ties are closest to those Southeast Asian countries strongly influenced by India. In fact, if there are ancient Buddhist or Hindu sites to be found on a country’s soil, you can almost bet its cuisine will include ingredients such as cumin, coriander, ginger, and/or caraway. And you will find curries — highly spiced sauces often diluted with coconut milk and served with bite-sized bits of meat, fish and vegetables to enliven the blandness of rice.
Arab traders ultimately converted Java from Hinduism to Islam and exercised their culinary influence as well. Kebabs, marinated meat cubes threaded on skewers, were reinterpreted to become satay. Dill and fennel entered the repertoire of spices. Today Indonesia is the largest Muslim country in the world. Not surprisingly, goat and lamb are important meats, while pork is forbidden. It is eaten only in Hindu Bali and within the Chinese community.
Chinese merchants and traders meanwhile added their own indispensable contributions to the cookpot. Indonesian food would be unrecognizable without the wok, stir-frying, the soybean and noodles which thread their way throughout the cuisine in countless ways. Among their many vegetables, the Chinese brought mustard greens, mung beans, daikon radish and Chinese cabbage.
The Dutch, attracted by the nutmeg and cloves of Maluku, waged wars over the Spice Islands and ultimately colonized the entire archipelago. Colonization caused much suffering, but added the finishing touch when it came to flavors. Chili peppers from Mexico added their unmistakable sting. Peanuts from the Americas provided sauces for satay and gado-gado. Cassava from the Caribbean and sweet potatoes from South America furnished Maluku and Irian Jaya with their staples.
In this exotic world, Dutch colonizers sought the flavors of home. They imported cabbage, cauliflower, carrots, string beans, potatoes and corn, adding to the already vast array of vegetables. They also created an entertainment institution designed to present scores of different dishes at a single sitting. Rijsttafels might contain up to a hundred different dishes. Servants stood behind the chair of each guest ready to provide soothing morsels when necessary to cool a burning palate.
But a cuisine is more than the sum of its parts. Indonesian cooks adopted new tools, techniques and ingredients and indigenized them — some of the nearly beyond recognition. Ingenious home cooks used new techniques and forged ingredients unique to Indonesia.
Today soybeans provide not just nutritious beans for cooking on their own, soy sauce, tofu and sprouts, but tempeh, toasted soybean cakes fashionable in Western health food circles. Chinese soy sauce plays a role similar to fish sauce in Thailand, Vietnam and the Philippines. But Indonesians enrich it by the addition of sugar, star anise, salam leaf and galangal to become kecap manis or sweet soy sauce, a key ingredient and a dynamite addition to any cook’s pantry. (Pronounce that “ketchup.” It’s the Indonesian origin of the English word.)
Not surprisingly, Indonesia has created a mix of flavors which exerts its own influence abroad. Satay has crept up the Malay Peninsula to become one of Bangkok’s favorite street foods. Indonesian food plays a major role in the melange of cuisines found in Singapore. After years of colonial intimacy, the Dutch are avid fans and some of the best Indonesian restaurants abroad can be found in the Netherlands.
History can be dry as dust or it can be fresh and tasty. Eating our way through Indonesia allows us to appreciate the significance of this country as a cultural crossroads where the great art, religions, political powers and economic forces meet and interact — and lets us ache for just another bite.
Mail Order Supplies
In cities like New York, Los Angeles, Seattle, Vancouver and the San Francisco Bay area, you should have no trouble finding ingredients for cooking Indonesian food in your local Asian markets. Certain ingredients unique to Indonesian cuisine such as kemiri, a thickening agent, and salam leaf may be marketed under English names as candlenut and Indian bay leaf. Pandan leaf is occasionally used in Thai cooking and may be found in stores catering to Thai customers.
But you surfers living in cities with small Asian populations can now sit back and order ingredients with a click of the mouse. Yup, Indonesian ingredients on-line. Check out www.lm.com/~bachris for a website run by Syamsul and Beverley Bachri, owners of Bachri’s, an Indonesian restaurant in Pittsburgh. You’ll find just about everything you need for a home-cooked Indonesian meal and then some.
Indonesian Restaurants
Web pals have recommended the following restaurants in their areas:
Bali Authentic Indonesian Cuisine
7660 Fay Avenue
La Jolla, CA 92037-4843
(619) 454-4540
Gadja-mada Restaurant
16440 Norwalk Blvd.
Cerritos, CA 90703-1929
(310) 404-1732
Ramayani Westwood
1777 Westwood Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90024-5607
(310) 477-3315
Borobudur
4403 Geary
San Francisco, CA 94118-3005
(415) 752-0504
Borobudur
700 Post Street
San Francisco, CA 94109-6106
(415) 775-1512
Indonesia Cafe
3815 Geary Street
San Francisco, CA 94118-3210
(415) 387-0933
Indonesia Restaurant
678 Post St.
San Francisco, CA 94109-8232
(415) 474-4026
Jakarta Indonesia Cuisine
615 Balboa
San Francisco, CA
(415) 387-5225
Melati
3506 Connecticut Ave. NW
Washington, DC 20008-2401
(202) 537-1432
(Malaysian with some Indonesian)
Sabang Restaurant
2504 Ennals Ave.
Wheaton, MD 20902-4630
(301) 942-7859
Yono’s
289 Hamilton St.
Albany, NY 12210-1707
(518) 436-7747
Bali Nusa Indah
651 9th Ave.
New York, NY 10036-3600
(212) 765-6500
Borobudur Cafe
128 East 4th Street
New York, New York 10003
(212) 641-9079
Java Indonesian Restaurant
455 7th Ave.
Brooklyn, NY 11215-5512
(718) 832-4583
Matahari Restaurant
10001 Westheimer Road
Houston, TX 77042-3151
(713) 977-4317
Java Restaurant
8929 Roosevelt Way NE
Seattle, WA 98115-3029
(206) 522-5282
Indonesia Padang Restaurant
9019 Bayview Ave., Unit 14-15
Richmond Hill, Ontario, Canada
(905) 889-8232
If you’re traveling in London, try Melati, in Amsterdam, Tempo Dollo, and an Indonesian friend reports that his favorite restaurants in Jakarta are Satay House Senayan (authentic Indonesian food), Bakmi Gajah Mada, Bakmi Gang Kelinci (two Chinese Noodle Houses), Sari Kuring (West Javanese cuisine), and Ayam Goreng Ny Suharti (Javanese fried chicken).
June 5th, 2006
Tinjil is a tropical island located about 15 kilometers off the southwest coast of Java, the capital island of Indonesia. Six kilometers long and one kilometer wide, it is almost completely covered with vegetation, much of which is tree growth that is 20 to 30 meters high. A botanical survey has revealed many fruiting bushes and other plants known to be edible to macaques. Three natural water sources and a number of shallow wells provide water. Animal life on the island includes crabs and other seashore creatures; lizards, including some monitor lizards; a few snakes; and, of course, insects. There were no native primates before the introduction of the longtailed macaque colony that now inhabits the island.
In 1982 and 1983, the Indonesian government met with a small team of consultants sponsored by the World Health Organization (WHO) to explore the feasibility of maintaining the supply of primates “for essential biomedical purposes” in a manner that would “ensure the permanent conservation of the various species” (Hiddleston and Smith, 1982; MacKinnon, 1983). The ensuing reports applauded the Indonesian government’s recent steps toward conservation, such as the establishment of nature reserves exceeding 11.2 million hectares and setting export quotas on primates for use in research at about 16,000 per year (Hiddleston and Smith, 1982; MacKinnon, 1983), a level that has remained relatively stable since that time. tology program to offer training in pertinent aspects of primate biology and ecology to students and professional personnel of the IPB and governmental agencies involved in forestry management. Simultaneously, they began to set up the quarantine facilities, compound breeding facilities, and laboratories necessary to conduct primate research at the university. The Indonesian government provided funds to the university to establish a staging area at Muara Binuanguen, a fishing village on the Java mainland where the boats for Tinjil Island were based. The base camp includes a dock for two boats with inboard diesel engines to transport people, animals, and equipment between the island and the mainland, a covered dry dock for maintenance of the boats, and a quarantine facility for animals going to or from the island. With these accommodations as a focus, the university has built facilities where it will offer extension courses to residents of the village and surrounding area in subjects pertinent to their occupations, not only to those involved in the NHBF, but to local fishermen, farmers, and other community members.
The island is approximately 600 ha in size and consists of lowland tropical rainforest and coastal/beach vegetation. It is surrounded by coral reef that provides home to a variety of aquatic marine animals. Tinjil island has been developed as a natural habitat breeding facility for longtailed macaques (Macaca fascicularis) with a current population size estimated at about 2200 monkeys. Native fauna includes bats, rats, a number of bird and reptile species, and a wide variety of insects and crustacea. Through a formal agreement established between the Indonesian Field Study Program and the Pusat Studi Satwa Primata (PSSP, Primate Research Center) at the Institut Pertanian Bogor (IPB, Bogor Agricultural University) in Bogor, Indonesia, students from the University of Washington (as well as from other American and foreign universities) may participate in educational, training, and research activities at PSSP-IPB affiliated field and laboratory facilities in Indonesia including, but not limited to, those facilities established and maintained in collaboration with the University of Washington National Primate Research Center.This and further information can be viewed by following the link above.
Source : dels.nas.edu/ilar_n/ilarjournal/34_4/34_4Conservationally.shtml
June 5th, 2006
The first fine break you might see as you approach south Panaitan’s surfing bay is a legendary left point break known the world over as One Palm Point.
This point break, marked by a single sentinel palm, is one of Indonesia’s lefthand wonders. Waves here peel perfectly from outside to inside, barrelling the whole way over a shallow bottom that inspires paranoia but creates record-time tube rides. Indeed, this is not a place for timid or inexperienced waveriders.
One Palm Point works best on a good-sized swell, a southeasterly and offshore wind, and at a more medium than low tide. It is ridiculously shallow here, so wear any protective gear you can find. Weary of long and lefthand tube rides? Then head for the opposite side of this three-kilometer wide bay where you will find both a big bombora right on the bay’s outside arc-headland, plus, just inside the bay’s entrance, a right hand point break, Panaitan Rights, that is not as reckless as the left at One Palm Point, but sometimes perfect.
Both places experience drastic tide changes, so check them out at different tides.
Outside Panaitan are numerous bombie-type cloudbreaks that rise, crash and seem to disappear. They are spooky, but look around and you might just spot a well-shaped peak. Just as fun and ridable in this deep claw of a bay are a series of inner-harbor breaks which are collectively referred to as Inside Panaitan.
Some of these spots, especially those to the inside-centre of the bay, aresimply soft, fun and relaxing, but one particular righthander located deep inside and on the western, or portside, of the bay can be very good and picks up nicely amplified southerly swells of decent size.
Prevailing winds are bounced around and blow offshore here, so when Outside Panaitan is blown out, this Inside Panaitan playground can be perfect.
source : www.wavehunters.com/java/java_surf.asp
June 5th, 2006
Banten is one of the newest provinces in Indonesia and also one of the richest. The province combines many of the most important Industrial Zones in Indonesia and also has the exteded recreation areas along the western coast of Java and in the south the Ujung Kulon National Park and the mountainous areas which are home to the Baduy people. An endless variety!
Banten has the easiest access to Jakarta being merely an enclave in this province.
This province uses its own unique culture and language, both called Sundanese which is also used to call its people. The ancient kingdoms of Tarumanegara, Pajajaran, Banten and Cirebon would make interesting studies for the student of archaeology Cirebon is located on the border between West and Central Java, having a mixed culture originating from the ancient Cirebon and Banten kingdoms, resulting in similar customs and dialects of the two people, although the city of Banten is located at the extreme western part of the province.
The city of Banten on Banten Bay was one of the first palces to begin trade with the Dutch. There is little to see of the past glories of this area today with the exception of the Grand Mosque which was completed in the year 1599 and is certaily worth a visit.
The Province has a great number of attractions, from the wildlife reserve of Ujung Kulon on the south-western tip of Java and the isolated communities of the mysterious Baduy to the unspoiled beaches. The villages are busy and attractive and the pace of life gets slower as you move towards the National Park in the south west.
From any point along the western coast you can see the “son of Krakatoa” volcano which rises impressively from the sea. To hire a boat to go there will cost about $150 and the journey takes about five hours. It has a number of sea resorts on its western coast which have modern hotels and are popular during weekends and holiudays.
Banten offers many different recreational experiences. The trip to the Anyer area from Jakarta is now quick and easy because of the toll road which connects the port of Merak with Jakarta. As you move further south along the west Java coast the lifestyle becomes more relaxed and after Labuan you move into more rural areas where the road conditions worsen and the lifstyle is relaxed. Here access to the forest areas begins and you can move back in time and enjoy the peace of nature. There is a bus each day from Labuan to Taman Jaya which is on the edge of the Ujung Kulon national park. There simple cabins can be hired and a ranger can then take you on a walk into the park. It takes about six hours to reach a camping site. Food is not readily available so take some with you from Matahari in Labuan! This is the cheapest way to get into the National Park. Boats from and of the west coast ports will also take you into the park often using the islands of Panaitan, Peucan and Handeuleum where accommodation is also available. Contact us through our email contact below for more information on ths park or proceed directl;y to the park office at Labuhan.
Baduy Cultural Conservation
The Baduy community in Banten is an utterly unique and closed society which can be reached via a 10 km village road from either Cibolegar or Cibungur village in the Leuwidamar district. The 50 km road from Rangkasbitung is steep. In April and May, the Baduy community is closed to outsiders, as during this time it commemorates certain ceremonies, called Seba, the offering of part of their agricultural products to the Head of the District, Sub-Regent and the Chief Resident. During this ceremony the “Puun of Baduy” sends out a group of representatives of Baduy Dalam people as well as Baduy Luar to act as the community’s spokesmen. When conducting this Seba ceremony the Baduy Dalam members refuse to ride any vehicle, instead, the distance of150 km is traveled on foot as proof of their perseverance.
To enter this very special Baduy area, one should obtain written permission from the Rangkasbitung District Office stating the purpose of the visit which may take one whole week to process.
Banten
This is the coastal area where the Dutch formerly landed to trade. Banten has few relics to show of its past grandeur, however, there are the ruins of powerful Moslem kingdoms such as the palaces of Surosowan and Kaibon, the grand mosque of Mesjid Agung Banten (1599) and a Dutch fortress and an old Chinese temple.
Carita Beach
Accessible from Jakarta over a fair road, you can reach it in less than 3 hours, one third of which is over a toll road which is being extended to the extreme western part of Java in Merak. Here again, most visitors arrive from Jakarta as Bandung is more than 6 hours away from Carita by road. At present Carita and surroundings have definitely got more hotels and other accomodation than those found in Pelabuhan Ratu, and is therefore better developed. It is also located on the way to ferry-crossings to Sumatra from Merak.
Besides white beaches behind hundreds of swaying coconut trees, one panoramic highlight is the visibility of the infamous Krakatoa Volcano from Carita, rising above the horizon in the Sunda Strait between Java and Sumatera. You won’t have difficulties finding a place to stay here as many cottages, hotels and camping grounds are all available, not to mention the inevitable seafood.
Dua Island
Dua Island (Pulau Dua) is the name of a small nature preservation inhabited by some 50 kinds of fish-eating birds. These birds originated from Africa, Asia and Australia and stay on this island to lay and hatch their eggs during April through August each year and fly back home afterwards. It is located in the Banten bay and is accessible by boat from Tanjung Priok sea harbor or from Marina, Ancol.
Karang Bolong Beach
The name Karang Bolong means Rock (karang) with a Hole (bolong). This may have been some frozen lava, formed during the eruption of Mount Krakatau. The Rock forms a gate facing the sea, making it look very picturesque. There is a small forest which has been converted into a recreation spot. There is a river flowing down to the sea where people can have a bath of fresh water after swimming in the salty sea.
Krakatoa Volcano
With devastating effects this volcano erupted just over a century ago in 1883, bringing its fine ashes with the wind streams as far away as over New York City, whereas the eruption’s tidal waves reached the American West Coast. At that very instant, Krakatoa vanished as if devoured by the sea, causing formidable tidal waves which in turn swept off just about everything alive from the surrounding coastal areas. However, the disappearance of the gigantic Krakatoa also meant the birth of small islands in its place, one ofwhich is called “Anak Krakatau” or Krakatoa’s Child which is at present an extremely active young volcano. From both WestJava’s West Coast and from Sumatra’s Lampung Province, this young and very active volcano is clearly visible. A boat trip to this place may be worth making.
Salira Indah Beach
About 15 km from the Merak bus station is the Salira Indah beach resort, located at scening Tanjung Pujut. This resort on Java’s west coast can easily be reached within a few hours from Jakarta either by bus or car.
Ujung Kulon
On the southwestern tip of West Java is a wildlife reserve of 51,000 hectares covering the Ujung Kulon peninsula and the nearby islands of Panaitan and Peucang. The reserve is a dense forest and is the home of the last surviving one-horned rhinoceros of which only 50 remain. Ujung Kulon is accessible by boat and the closest departure point is Labuan on the west coast.
An entry permit is needed, issued by the Forestry Service (Perlindungan Hutan dan Pelestarian Alam) at Labuan. The dense forest provides a natural habitat for many species of rhinoceros, wild ox, deer, wild boar, panthers, crocodiles, snakes and birds. Visitors are only allowed up to the buffer zone where rustic accomodation is available on Peucang island where towers are erected to be able to observe the animals undisturbedly.
Marine life in the surrounding seas is a kaleidoscope of colors. Beautiful sea gardens are found off Peucang and Panaitan islands. There are no scuba facilities in Ujung Kulon. On the western tip of the peninsula is a lighthouse built by the Dutch which stands near the site of the ruins of the old one.
A stay of at least two days on the reserve is recommended where food provisions should be taken along.
source : www.archipelago-emag.com/provinces/banten/bantentour.html
June 5th, 2006
Ujung Kulon National Park covers a total of 120 hectares of land and sea. This one habitat allegedly has the biggest white rhinocerous population in the world. But since there are only about 58 left in the world, don’t be surprised if you don’t see one. There are a lot more equally amazing things to see in Ujung Kulon National Park. Ina Hapsari takes a trip with Explore Indonesia.
We went with the Explore Indonesia tour group and left Jakarta for Taman Nasional Ujung Kulon, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It takes six hours to reach Sumur, one of the entrance-ways to the park. The area is lush and secluded and it is a blessing in disguise that there is no telephone signal here.
Before beginning the day’s activities, we have breakfast at Kantor Seksi Wilayah III Sumur, an entrance to the park. The expedition group consists of 75 people divided in to five groups, all departing from Laban.
From the port of Sumur, a motorboat takes an hour and a half. There is one changeover to a smaller boat as the bigger boats can’t reach the shallow harbour. Finally as we take off our sandals and roll up our jeans three boats wait in the middle of the ocean to take us to the Laban.
With the sea breeze, the sunshine and a perfect blue sky, we sail on. Schools of fish, the livelihood of the local communities, swim around our boat. Small children with spindly legs beam at us as they jump off the fish cages in the middle of the water and swim in the sea.
For the first hour, the group is enthusiastic, but the scorching sun and increasingly strong sea breeze sends a few of us to sleep. The rest relax on deck and chat away with their new friends. I choose to enjoy the view of Krakatau on my right.
Crossing the North and South Sea
Finally we arrive at Laban and because of low-tide, we must make the transfer by canoe. Here we meet the rangers who will guide us during our stay in Ujung Kulon. To take care of the whole national park, there are 35 rangers who have to spend 20 days each month working in the jungle. Ranger Untung is the guide of my trekking group.
After 2 km, we enter the largest low land tropical forest in West Java headed to Karang Ranjang. From Laban to Karang Ranjang is the shortest distance connecting the north and the south sea. So within an hour we experienced crossing the North Sea and meeting the Indian Ocean on the other side of the island.
Though we can’t see them, singing birds accompany us on our journey. Like everyone visiting Ujung Kulon for the first time, we wish to see the Rhino, the ‘prince’ of the Ujung Kulon jungle. But after hearing a story about Pak Untung, a man who has worked here for more than 20 years but has only seen the Rhino 10 times, we decide not to get our hopes up and vow to enjoy our whatever we are lucky enough to see. We see bull footprints several times on our trek. ‘Different with the Rhinos which has their own track, bulls sometimes crossing our track,’ says Pak Untung.
About 500m before the end of our journey, the Indian Ocean waves become audible and suddenly, just beyond the dense trees of the forest, the blue sea appears in front of us. While waiting for lunch to be served, I relax under the tree and listen to the sound of the wild Indian Ocean’s waves. Now I understand the difference between it and the calm North Sea. Lunch is served on a leaf. Even though the food is very simple, everybody enjoys devouring it. The lost energy has to be replenished before our next trek, which this time is 7 km to Tanjung Lame, where we spend the night.
The trekking experience to Tanjung Lame is almost the same as the first one, but this time we find big trees that have toppled over and blocked the path, making this trek a bit more difficult. According to Monika, the only female ranger in Ujung Kulon who is now our guide, this is a natural regeneration: when the old one dies and become a fertile soil for the new plant to grow. In the middle of the journey, we can see the North Sea again. To have a different view, some of the participants choose to continue the trekking by the sea. Some others stick to the jungle to shelter from the heat. 3 hours pass by quickly and we arrive at Kantor Seksi II Pulau Hendeuleum, Tanjung Lame. Fresh coconut is served to welcome us: a ‘cure’ drink after the long journey we have been through. The bathroom becomes our next ‘struggle’.
At the end, the orange horizon turns into dark night sky. The hard wind tonight does not prevent us from enjoying the sparkling stars. The dinner even tastes more delicious in the open air. I decide to turn in early to conserve my energy for tomorrow’s activities. Canoeing in Cigenter River In the morning, our journey continues to Puecang Island, where we will spend the night. But before reaching Peucang, we will go canoeing on Cigenter River, the core zone of the Rhino’s habitat. The river is a place where the Rhinos take a bath and drink. Our hope to see the animal grows again.
This time we have to sail for an hour. The eager anticipation of canoeing makes the time fly by. But my enthusiasm suddenly changes to tension after seeing the small canoe I will use. Especially when I remember the morning’s briefing that crocodiles are also inhabitants of the river.
Each canoe holds 5 people, including the driver. We are instructed not to make any unnecessary movements which could off-set the balance of the canoe, as it could injure the passengers. Tension seizes me as my canoe struggles to hurdle the rough sea waves before reaching the river. Luckily we reach the river safely.
In the river, my tension eases as the calm water stabilizes the canoe. Here, the atmosphere is more tranquil. The birds sing softly and small fish swim in the clean green water. We row the canoe,taking turns, and enjoy the river view. Some trees jut out from the river banks and we have to duck several times. The canoe also has to avoid the fallen trees which cross our path. After canoeing for about 1.2 km, we have to turn around, this time the river is fully blocked by a fallen tree. Though we haven’t been ‘lucky’ enough to see a sunbathing crocodile or a python dangling from a tree branch, the tranquility and the singing birds have already been our bonus.
Our lunch is served at Hendeuleum Island this time, not too far away from Cigenter. Besides beautiful nature, Hendeuleum offers tame deer to play with and monkeys which hang on the trees watching our activity. Unfortunately, we didn’t spend much time in the island because our journey to Peucang will take 2 more hours.
Swimming with fish & spying on the bulls
Just arriving at Peucang, some of the group members can’t resist the temptation to jump in the clear sea water. I choose to watch the fun while my feet feel the soft white sandy beach. Some deer feed on the savanna in front of our cottage and seem indifferent to the human presence near them. But be wary of the curious monkeys, as they are eager to examine your belongings. Tonight once again the stars shine so brightly. Sitting in the quay enjoying the gentle waves feels so good. We have dinner near the sea, complete with the bonfire. The dinner is special because we each roast our own fish.
Tomorrow morning, we will have free time before leaving Ujung Kulon. There are a variety of activities we can opt to do: relaxing in Peucang, trekking to Karang Copong (the other side of the island), snorkeling in Citerjun or spying on the bulls at Cidaun savanna.
I choose the last option for a simple reason- I didn’t bring enough equipment for snorkeling and I think I have more than enough trekking experience from the other day.
To reach Cidaun, we have to depart at 6 am from Peucang by motor boat. We hope to see the bulls having their breakfast. The warm sunrise in the east sky accompanies our journey. Arriving at Cidaun, we have to enter the forest again but it isn’t too long before we arrive in the savanna where the bulls used to weed. Our arrival is welcomed by the loud sound of a male peacock trying to get the female’s attention, but no bulls so far. We wait patiently, but still there is no sign that the bulls will come out. A group of peacocks cross the savanna.
According to Ranger Dodi, bulls will never come out between 11 am - 2 pm because of the heat. ‘We could only hope they would come out at all. It depends on our luck,’ he says, trying to ease the disappointment.
Back at Peucang, I want to swim. The water is so fresh I can see the bottom. I only swim near the quay, but am pleased to see thousand of finger size fishes making a formation under me. A naughty fish even splashed me on my cheek.
When it’s time to go home, I feel my expedition to Ujung Kulon this time is complete. Trekking in the forest, canoeing in the river, swimming in the sea and spying on the bulls at the savanna, is there anything better than this?
FACT FILE
For information about tours organized by Explore Indonesia contact: Jalan Jaksa no.5, Kebon Sirih, Tel 7001 0718, 319 04157, liburanindonesia@yahoo.com
This area also has some of the best surf in the country. www.nomadsurfindonesia.com can help arrange the boat-based surf tour of your dreams.
Jakarta - Cilegon Barat toll road - Anyer - Carita - Labuan - Panimbang - Tanjung Lesung - Cibaliung - Sumur
Where to stay:
6 rooms available at Hendeuleum island for Rp 75.000/night 7 Fauna rooms available at Peucang island for Rp 250.000-350.000/night or Bivak room for Rp 150.000/night.
Ujung Kulon National Park Office
Jalan Perintis Kemerdekaan No.51 Labuan, Pandeglang 42264 Tel +62-253 801731
Source : www.jakartajavakini.com/pages/edition/may-2005/features/west-java/jungle-fever.php
June 5th, 2006
Tana Toraja (Toraja Land), is known for its unique culture and ancient traditions. The center of tourism is Rantepao, 328 km from Makassar by road. There are several small bungalow hotels at Rantepao, and Makale, the district capital. The entry to Tana Toraja is marked by a gate built in traditional boat-shaped architecture. The road passes through the mountains of Kandora and Gandang on which, according to Toraja mythology, the first ancestors of celestial beings descended from heaven. The majority of the people still follows an ancestral cult called “Aluk Todolo” which governs all traditional ceremonies.
From Rantepao, side trips can be made to Kete, a traditional village where there are handicraft and unique shops.
Torajan culture is a complex blend of ancestor worship and animistic beliefs where rituals for the dead are colorful festivals to pave the way for the soul’s entry into the hereafter. This unique culture, the scenic beauty, cool climate and gentle people are the main reason that Toraja is gaining popularity as a tourist destination. For many visitors, Toraja will linger in their mind as a land steeped in mystery, magic and ancient traditions. It is one of the world’s rare cultural treasures.
Symbolised in mythology as the land of heavenly kings, its boat-shaped houses face north in honour of the deities. Their traditional house called tongkonan are related to the settlers who converted their boats into houses, and set the pattern of present-day community life. There is a belief that early settlers came by boats and converted the boats into houses. The houses are beautifully decorated with carvings and geometric designs. The number of buffalo horns hanging in front of the house indicate the status and wealth of the owner. Though Cristianity and Islam have found converts here and modern trends have made inroads, traditional rituals remain strong, especially that of funeral rites.
The most spectacular of Torajan rituals are the funerals. For Torajan, a funeral is the single most important ceremony in the life cycle. It is based on a strong belief that the soul of the deceased travels to the land of the south and in this land of eternity, he will need all the requisites of everyday life in the hereafter just like when he was alive in this world. Funeral ceremonies are festival lasting as long as ten days with much feasting and entertainment. Animal sacrifices are made to ensure eternal life in the afterlife and to safeguard the descendants.
A funeral is a festive event for every member of the society. When the funeral is held by noble families then the ceremony will usually involve great fanfare. Buffaloes and pigs are sacrificed as an indication of status and as repayment for gifts received. This ceremony may take days, weeks or months after the actual death and the decreased is referred to as a sick man until he is buried.
Various types of graves are located in cliffside caves, mountain ledges or in special houses reserved for the dead. The graves in Tana Toraja are made in huge rocks because of their strength and relative safety from animals and thieves. There are many of these graves in the different mountains. And some are well guarded by life-size wooden statues of the persons buried.
GETTING AROUND
By Air:
The airport serving Rantepao is at Rantetayo, near Makle, 24 km south of Rantepao and there is a bus service to town.
By Land:
Buses to Rantepao from Ujung Pandang leave daily from Ujung Pandang. The journey takes 8 hours and includes a meal stop. Tickets should be bought in town but coaches actually leave from Panaikan bus terminal, 20 minutes out of town by bemo. Coaches typically leave in the morning ( 7 am ), noon ( 1 pm ) and at night ( 7 pm).
Several companies in Rantepao run buses back to Ujung Pandang with the departure time and prices. The number of buses each day depends on the number of passengers.
Local Transportation:
Bemo is the best way to get to know the locals, besides chartered vehicles (minibuses and Jeeps) with or without driver.
source : www.kbriwina.at/Landesinfo/Traveldeutsch/tana_toraja.htm
June 5th, 2006