Indonesia and World Tourism News

Pelabuhan Ratu, West Java : Secluded Pleasures

May 31st, 2006

The rugged road to the small fishing town of Pelabuhan Ratu in Southwest Java is well-troden by Jakartans on weekend and holiday jaunts. But an even bumpier road, heading 20 km to the west of it will take you to the lesser known and excellent Ocean Queen Resort.
Until recently, the secluded Ocean Queen Resort was a little known collection of time-share bungalows. But the rooms have now been made available to the visiting public and a steady trickle of townies (especially expats) have been discovering the mellow delights of this peaceful family retreat since then.

Ocean Queen Resort has 18 large family bungalows, each with either three or four double or twin bedrooms. 12 are on the almost deserted, palm-fringed black sand beach and the rest are just behind. The bamboo wicker, Javanese-style bungalows are simple but spacious and immaculately kept. They feature two bathrooms, fully equipped kitchens, large verandas facing the beach, solid brick BBQ pits, and fans but no AC.

The journey there is not the easiest, but once there, it’s time to kick back because everything is taken care of. Bungalows on the beach have their own beach gazebos wherein many a massage (at the very cheap price of Rp. 10,000) is given.

Houseboys take care of all your domestic needs including shopping in the town and cooking up the barbie.

Friendly and accommodating Dutch resort manager Nora has everything under control. And due to the resort being a major employer in the only nearby village, security is good and there is virtually no hassle from hawkers and the like.

The only complaint is that the restaurant service can be pretty slow, but, hey, everything goes slow here, that’s the way we like it!

When you get bored of all that lazing around there’s a long list of other places to visit and activities to get involved in.

There are loads of games available at the resort, as well as a pool and bar and volleyball takes place at 4.30 PM every day.

The whole area boasts magnificent countryside and scenery. A short walk in any direction around the hilly terrain near the resort will yield fabulous views over lush padi fields stretching all the way to the crashing surf.

Nearby, at Cisolok, are some river hot springs where you can bask at your leisure or bike or hike from here up the path to a waterfall for a colder dip. The walk takes you through a rubber plantation where you can see the white gooey stuff that ends up as your car tire being extracted.

Next you can explore the pristine coast to the west by boat, motorbike (available to rent for Rp. 70,000 a day) or mountain bike. Or go snorkeling, surfing, swimming or Scuba diving in the Indian Ocean. The beaches around Pelabuhan Ratu are a lot safer since lifeguards have been put in place over the last few years. The rate of accidents has dropped dramatically, however caution is still advised in these rough waters.

You can hire a boat to go fishing for sharks, marlin, tuna, barracuda, etc. An easier option is to visit one of the nearby fish markets including the large one at Pelabuhan Ratu. Or just amble around the harbour and watch the fishermen arrive to unload their catches.

The nearby primary forest of Mount Halimun offers hiking, bird- and animal-watching, and, an incongruous recent addition, paint-balling. The Citarik River which cascades down the mountain, has some adventurous white-water rafting.

If you’re still not tired, go hiking around the tea plantation of Bojong Asih or watch the turtles lay their eggs at Ujung Genteng.

There is a bat cave near the resort full of funny little fruit bats who spring to life and fly out of there around sunset which can be quite a sight.

But I challenge anyone to beat the pleasure of lying on your beach gazebo watching yet another beautiful Pelabuhan Ratu sunset sink behind the mountains. The light catches the surf as it throws up a mysterious mist around the bay. And out on the water, the twinkling light of the squid rafts’ kerosene lamps hiss into action as the aroma of your own fish drifts over to tempt you from your reverie.

Entry Filed under: Indonesia & Bali Tourism News