| SERAM
ISLAND
Seram, the largest and among the least known islands in Maluku,
hovers over Ambon, Saparua and lots of sea. Many of Ambon's tradition
are said to have originated from Seram, including the division into
two sets of customs, patasiwa and patalima, as well as pela alliances
between two villages often located far apart. Seram is also replete
with magic, for the Amboneses anyway, with many anecdotes of men
who can fly, kill at a distance and change their shape at will.
While the western part of the island has lost its mystery, thanks
to thriving lumber industry, the remote eastern mountains is where
the magic is now concentrated.
- MASOHI
Masohi the capital of the central Maluku district is on Seram's
south-central beach. The plains around the town have received
a population boost, with migrant from overcrowded Saparua and
some of the isolated islands to the south, as well as resettled
mountain dwellers from Seram itself. One group of mountain people,
the Naulu with their familiar red headbands live fairly close
to Masohi.
- MOUNT API
Mount Api, active Volcano Island directly opposite Banda Neira
last erupted in the late 1980s but fortunately almost all the
lava and ash fell on the side away from the town. The view from
the summit is spectacular. To climb, go with a guide and get
start early to beat the heat of the day. Count on 20 - 30,000
for a guide, including the canoe ride to and from Banda Neira.
A guide isn't really necessary since once you land on the dock
on the East Side of Mount Api, there's only one way up and it's
pretty obvious. If you're alone and safety conscious, you may
wish to take a guide since the trail is quite treacherous.
- TUAL
Tual is the capital of Southeast Maluku district and the transportation
for an extensive network of roads and sea-lanes. A half an hour
drive away is Dullah village, where Belaway Museum boasts a
splendid ceremonial conoe, complete with carved decorations.
From Tual, canoes depart daily to the mysterious island of Kei
Besar. Occasionally, the boats from Tual also head for Dobo,
the largest town of the Aru archipelago. This spread of some
25 islands, all mangrove swamp and low-lying palm forest, is
the home of unusual butterflies and flocks of birds-of-paradise.
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